Wide Angle

Nikon D50 Software

INTRODUCTION

This is how I take advantage of and arrange a D50.

Want free live cellphone assist, 24 hours a day, three hundred and sixty five days a yr? In case you’re within the USA, call (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has a few of it is personal operator’s tutorials here.

I begin off explaining things so simply my mother can understand, and get on to deciphering each menu item for superior users on the bottom.

For extra examples of why you’d wish to change these settings and why, additionally see my Maui Photo Expedition page.

BASICS:

CAMERA

Many of these adjustments require you to be in be within the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes often lock out some adjustments.

I depart most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I never use the lovable little preset icon modes as a result of I prefer to set something particular myself.

ISO: I take advantage of 200. If the light gets dim and my photos would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I improve the ISO to 400, 800 or 1,600. I never hassle with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 looks positive at ISO 1,600 if you happen to need it. I would much relatively have a slightly grainy however sharp image than a less grainy however blurry one. Unlike film, the D50 appears to be like great at excessive ISOs, so I exploit them anytime I need them.

I would love to use ISO AUTO, but usually do not because it also stays active in Manual exposure mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the guide exposure mode. Utilizing menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual exposure mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.

White Stability (WB): I’d use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I choose hotter (oranger) images. I clarify white stability on my White Steadiness web page and clarify extra about methods to alter it on the D50 later.

QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. This is called NORM and L on the highest LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Giant (3,008 x 2,000) image size.

I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the identical shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I noticed NO difference! Seriously, if you happen to noticed these prints you would not be able to type them out either. I can see only the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to one hundred%, which is analogous to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has a hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t be concerned: should you need area, shoot BASIC and nobody will see the difference. The only method to tell is by wanting at the file size.

I’ll use BASIC for events and sports activities when I’m capturing many a whole lot and lots of of photographs at once. In these instances I am more involved with time wasted for the recordsdata to switch, copy and archive. Basic seems to be 99% the identical as FINE, even blown up big.

I’ll use FINE on rare events where I’m shooting only a few pictures and anticipate to look at them very closely. In these cases the additional size is not vital if I anticipate to be spending plenty of time analyzing each image.

I keep away from FINE JPG because NORM offers me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I’d run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Lacking a shot is a very visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they’re doing. That’s why they call it Normal and that’s why I usually use Normal JPG.

OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I want the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to present colour as vivid as I can get. To do that go to MENU > Taking pictures Menu (digicam icon) > Optimize Image > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Shade Mode to IIIa) > – - Done > OK. When you forget to select “- – Performed” and hit OK it will not remember these settings! Details are on the Capturing Menu page.

For photos of individuals I both set the colors back to regular, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the highest dial.

FOCUS: AF.

METERING: Matrix.

LENS

Many lenses haven’t any switches or settings. If so, do not worry.

More superior lenses have focus mode settings, which can be either “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.

On older lenses I go away it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is handbook focus. Generally you even have to maneuver the switch on the camera, which is a pain.

If the change says “M/A – A” then I use M/A. This gives autofocus, and if I seize the focus ring it instantly lets me make handbook corrections. As soon as I tap the shutter button once more I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, gives each kinds of focus with out ever having to maneuver any switches . It’s the best.

Non-G lenses will have an aperture ring where the lens is connected to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest number, often 22, if not 32 or 16. This number will be in orange on autofocus lenses. There normally is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you will get an error message from the D50.

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